OK so I have to support a few XP and Windows 95/98 users even now in 2021.
One XP machine developed a fault where it would give a few days required to activate, but would then state it was already activated.
The usual oobe 30 day reset worked, but of course is only valid for up to 120 days.
All other suggestions seemed to fail. (Registry permissions, modifying wpa.dbl etc.)
Turns out someone has created a file called ‘antiwpa’ which patches the WPA system in memory to think it’s running in Safe mode. Tested this solution and it seems to work fine. (Discovered by a torrent site.)
You can probably find it by using qBittorrent and the search feature – of course you’re taking your chance that it might do something evil as well as patching winlogon in memory, but if it’s an offline system it probably presents minimal risk.
All the top Google results are locked due to their age – so I doubt anyone will ever find this post, but you never know.
The Armidale Times is a paper-only publication, and at time of writing they appear to intentionally have no web and social media presence. They do however publish an email address and phone contact, as listed below.
So, if you’ve bought a new phone recently, or reset your watch; and tried to pair it to your Moto 360 first generation, you’ll find that Google Maps and probably several other apps haven’t transferred to your watch.
The main reason for this is that, as their way, Google has abandoned Wear 1 devices. Not quite in the Google Graveyard yet, but not far from it.
This guide is from March 2021; but if you’re visiting later than that, it’s possible this won’t work for you. It’s what worked for me.
This is post is based somewhat on https://medium.com/@karthikb23/revive-your-moto-360-gen-1-2020-updates-659d92d9cafd – which I tried; but ended up crashing my watch. Maybe I was impatient, not sure.
The steps that I followed.
1 – Install an older version of Android Wear on your phone, that still has the USB debugging option. I used this one from late 2018: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/google-play-services-android-wear/google-play-services-android-wear-14-7-92-release/google-play-services-wear-os-14-7-92-050300-220882040-android-apk-download/
2 – On your Moto 360, become a developer (Settings – About – tap “Build Number about 8 times until it says “You’re now a developer.)
3 – Enable ADB Debugging, and Debugging over Bluetooth on the watch. (Settings – Developer Options.)
4 – You might need to enable Bluetooth Debugging your phone. (Become a developer by tapping build number several times if not already done, then go into Developer options and Enable USB Debugging.)
5 – Enable “Debugging over Bluetooth” on the Wear OS app.
6 – Install ADB on your computer if you haven’t already. See https://www.xda-developers.com/install-adb-windows-macos-linux/
7 – Download a newer version of Google Play Services – I used this one: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/google-play-services-android-wear/google-play-services-android-wear-14-7-92-release/google-play-services-wear-os-14-7-92-050300-220882040-android-apk-download/
(You could try a newer one than the above – this one was new enough to work.)
8 – Download a copy of Google Maps for Wear OS – I used this one: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/maps-navigation-transit-android-wear/maps-navigation-transit-android-wear-10-35-2-release/google-maps-navigate-explore-wear-os-10-35-2-android-apk-download/ – again a newer one might work as well.
9 – These are the things I needed to type in to update my watch:
After doing this, a couple of other apps turned up as well – Deezer and the Omega Watch Face I downloaded earlier from https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.brohkahn.omegawatchface&hl=en&gl=US
I don’t know how much longer this watch will be able to keep working as Android gets updated into the future; but for now it lives again 🙂
I’ll post a link in Reddit, but will also enable comments here as well since Reddit has a tendency to lock older posts, meaning they can’t be updated with new information.
So I managed to kill mine by following the steps at https://medium.com/@karthikb23/revive-your-moto-360-gen-1-2020-updates-659d92d9cafd while trying to get it to update some apps. It would boot to the “Starting Android App 1 of 1” and go no further.
The method was to place it on the charger, and hold down the power button until it turned off, then hold it down again to turn on into a recovery mode. From there a factory reset by pressing the button and swiping to select the relevant option.
So my Smart Modem (generation 2, lunchbox) was blown up in a storm. I managed to pick up a Generation 1 smart modem (the small pizza box one) and decided to try swapping the SIM into it. The first gen one uses a micro SIM whereas the second gen was a full size SIM, so it required some trimming with scissors to get it to the right size. It works – this post was done via the 4G Backup.
Interestingly, I still have an old Commander-branded modem attached to the ADSL line, and so far both services are happy running simultaneously. (Same BigPond account.) Next test is to take the smart modem with the 4G to the next town over and see if it remains online – could be handy if it does.
The lunchbox one didn’t want to connect to the ADSL at first since it was previously on an NBN connection; but eventually it switched.
OK so there are instructions online about how to rate limit Chrome and Firefox from the developer console, but none of them seem to actually work for YouTube uploads. (Or I was doing it wrong which is also quite possible.)
The only working solution I found was a program called TMeter Free, using the documentation at https://www.howtogeek.com/347711/how-to-limit-any-applications-bandwidth-on-windows/
I’m happily uploading to YouTube at 2/3rds the max my ADSL can handle – ADSL becomes very slow on downloads if the upload is maxed out.
Tmeter is free from http://www.tmeter.ru/en/ – up to four processes only.
Had one of these come in today – customer had two, and both died in short order. Thought it might be a faulty docking station.
Symptom: Charge light works, but no power light or power switch function. Holding power button for >15 seconds causes the caps lock light to come on for a second or so.
Solution: Seemed to be to disassemble, remove the main battery and the CMOS battery. Power up the machine and get past the bios battery failure message, and hopefully back to normal. Possibly you’ll find yourself in the middle of Windows update – possible cause of suspicion??